It makes us cringe every time we see A5 Wagyu sirloin served as a steak in an American or European restaurant. Unless you are interested in burning money and killing your customers at the same time, this combination should rarely be attempted for the following reasons:
- Many cuts on an A5 Wagyu are too fat to be served as a steak.
The current grading system used by the Japanese Meat Grading Association relies heavily on yield and marbling. The number 5 in A5 means that the animal has an extremely high fat content and the color of the fat is more white than yellow, which contrasts well with the deep red muscle. Those cattle with a Beef Marbling Standard No. 8 – 12 on a 1-through-12 scale can achieve the No. 5 grade.
Since a higher grade generally comes with a bigger price tag, Japanese producers have been incentivized to produce fatter and fatter cattle. When the grading system was introduced in 1988, a BMS No. 8 animal had approximately 23% body fat. In 2005, the fat content increased to 41%, and now many exceed 50%. This means more than half of what a diner eats in an A5 steak is fat!
Ever heard someone say: “Wagyu tastes nice, but I’m not a huge fan”? The way it is served without considering the fat content is likely the reason. After filling their stomach with 4-6 oz of pure beef fat, no wonder the diner begins look delusional and says “no” to the signature dessert on your menu.
2. The grade has little to do with taste.
Everyone reading this article has probably said once or twice (at least quietly to themselves): “So what if I have a heart attack after this meal? The taste is worth it.” Well, we’ve got good news for you! Less fatty Wagyu often tastes better, especially as a steak.
Japan Cattle Husbandry Standard, an industry publication widely read by Wagyu farmers in Japan, states that “there is very little relationship between the amount of marbling and the taste in grilled beef,” and that “what matters is the free amino acids and fatty acids in the meat.”
Although marbling contributes to a melty texture, the umami we taste in meat comes mostly from the red meat. When enzymes break down the protein in the muscle, free amino acids are released to create flavors in our mouths. When it comes to Wagyu, balance is the key.
By the way, the A in A5 simply means the particular animal has a higher meat yield than average. It has nothing to do with taste or even marbling. So if you get a B5 or C5, the amount of marbling is the same.
3. You would be pouring money down the drain.
By getting an A4 cut instead of A5, you can save yourself over 20% on cost. Depending on the cut, even an A4 may contain more fat than many people would find palatable in a steak. If you must serve Wagyu as a steak, try to find some more balanced cuts such as chateaubriand and ichibo. An exciting alternative is to replace the steak dish with creative dishes that use high-quality Japanese Wagyu in small portions.
Contact us if you’d like to explore new cuts and menu items. Our Wagyu Sommeliers are passionate to share their ideas with you.